Mar 17 - North island tour

This morning, Lawrence, one of the PAYS boat boys, came zooming up to us at 0800 and asked if we were ready. "Ready for what?" we asked. "For your tour of the island," says he. Hmmm. Alexis said he'd contact us; we hadn't heard anything, and apparently he and Lawrence had added us to a van full of people going on a tour of the northern part of the island. OK...We quickly gathered our stuff and were ready in 5 minutes for the short ride to the Sandy beach dock, where Anselm, our driver, gathered us up and we all ran to the waiting van. Inside, 6 people waited, all French, but they were kind enough to speak English, for the most part. Although some yachties rent cars, we, again, felt better about things letting a local navigate his way around narrow, twisting roads, dodging a bit of traffic, a lot of pot holes, and turning onto roads we, no doubt, would have missed. The countryside is so lush, a beautiful view awaiting around each curve. The mountains afford amazing vistas, the highest one was about 4700' elevation in the distance. We stopped at various viewing points, eventually winding our way around to the Kalinago Territory to be where the Carib Indian ancestors of today's inhabitants were first discovered by Columbus. Modern Kalinagos are known for their handicrafts, basket weaving and dugout canoe building. We didn't buy any canoes, but did purchase a beautiful, small multi-colored, double-layered woven purse-basket, made waterproof by the integration of banana leaves between the inner and outer layers. We also bought a small series of carved gourds which hang vertically in a row of three. The last gourds we bought similar were from Panama! Following, we made our way to the Pointe Baptiste Chocolate Estate where Alan Napier, of Scottish descent, has a small factory outside the town of Calibishe. His grandparents bought the property in 1930, and he now makes delicious chocolate in a variety of flavors in a lush, tropical setting. We ate lunch at the Islet View Restaurant, a very nice stop with, you guessed right, beautiful views. In fact, with the distant colored waters and reefs, it reminded us a bit of those waters in some parts of French Polynesia. Our last stop was the Emerald Pool in the Morne Trois Pitons National Park. A short, easy walk brought us to the pool, but only one of our group went into the water; tres froid. The ride back to Portsmouth was on the main road from Roseau northwards, and we had to divert around a few washed-out, damaged segments of the road; Hurricane Erika of Aug 2015 destroyed many houses and roads here. By 1630 hours, we arrived back to our starting point; a full day, well worth the effort and price (150EC/pp).

Mar 15 - Portsmouth, Dominica

Pos: N15deg34.96min / W061deg27.96min. Departing at 0600 yesterday, we had a great sail in 18-20 knots of E wind on the beam from St Pierre to Dominica. Reaching Roseau, the capital at around noon, we decided to press on to Portsmouth, at the extreme NW end of the island. Interestingly, our E wind changed to NW as soon as we passed Scott's Head, our southern most waypoint. Unfortunately, the wind then died, and we ended up motorsailing about 2 hours to the large bay of Portsmouth. Anchoring in 22' sand, we stowed the sails and relaxed; it was 1700 hours. I should also note that the winds coming into the bay were strong, 18-22, on the nose, of course. It seems we're under the influence of a weather trough, bringing steady rain. We've filled the tanks, have extra water sitting around, and would go dancing on deck but it's cold in the wind and downpour. I cleared into Customs this morning, riding to the fish dock with Alexis, one of the many boat boys who make their living meeting incoming boats and arranging buoys, rides to shore, arranging purchase of ice or other stuff, and their big item...tours. We're anchored a long way from the Customs or the fish dock, and it was pouring, so the $10 USD (return included) was well worth it; our dinghy is still on deck. Clearance took just a few minutes, cost 10 EC (a little over $3 USD), and clearance in and out is granted at the same time for a two week stay. Longer stays are permitted with a return visit to Officialdom. We had hoped to get the dinghy in the water earlier, but the rain has been non-stop, and is forecast to be around for the next few days. No fun hiking in the rain forest, or sight-seeing, in a down-pour; most of the time I can barely see the shore line. All's well, albeit a bit damp, aboard.

Mar 8 - Update

At 0830, we went to Sea Services, a nearby chandlary-boutique. Of note is that you can check in/out here using their computers. After, we took the 420 bus from the main bus station here out to the Galleria Mall to check it out. Unfortunately, we missed our exit and ended up spending an extra 30 minutes riding around! Just another way to see the area... Once at the mall, we found it to be quite similar to any large mall in the States. We should also note that our drive revealed a tremendous amount of road and building construction going on, surely providing for high employment around here. At anchor, it's been peaceful so far, as the front we're expecting will arrive tomorrow. Anchoring drills are still taking place, with boats anchoring too close to one another, a few raised voices, a few gestures, but no real drama. Life in a crowd.
Pic: We found great free internet at the Schoelcher Library; quite an impressive building! The library was first built in France back in 1889, then shipped piece by piece to the island as an exquisite monument to Victor Schoelcher the French abolitionist writer from the early 19th century.

Mar 6 - Bye to Ty and Hanne

We walked the town and located a few places Sue and I would come back to this coming week, such as the laundromat, fish market, the Carrefour store, the Leader Price store, various bakeries (have to get those baguettes and pain a chocolats), and the check-out building. With high NE winds expected, no one will be moving around going north; we can think of worse places to spend a week. The live band music on the waterfront is playing Cuban salsa and other music; a nice change from the extremely loud, aggravating crap they played at Gros Islet in St Lucia. We enjoyed our last sundowners (for a while!), and Ty downloaded all the underwater (and above water) pictures he took onto his storage card. It was with regret that I hoisted his heavy backpack to him in the dinghy, and we all took the short ride to the dinghy dock. Finding a taxi wasn't a problem for them to get to the airport at 7pm. As usual, we like to keep our good-byes short, so it was hugs and bye. Safe travels! Love you and it was a great visit!
Pic: You'd never know Hanne was a rookie at snorkeling...not anymore. Another natural fish in the water!

Mar 5 - Fort de France

Pos: N14deg36.00min / W061deg04.19min. We motored across the bay to the FdF anchorage, just under Fort St Louis. High NE winds are forecast for the next 5 days or so, and we felt it afforded great protection. Also, Ty and Hanne depart tomorrow, so we were all set for them to pack and get ready for their return to Antwerp. We anchored in 18' mud, and enjoyed the high energy ambiance of being in the heart of the city.
Pic: The company we'll keep anchored here. Fort Saint Louis on the hill had it's start in 1638.

Mar 4 - Anse Dufour

Pos: N14deg31.60min / 061deg05.42min. We moved over to find better snorkeling and were well rewarded. The walls on both sides of the bay are rich with fish (small) and decent color in the coral. Turtles were plentiful, Hanne spotted a flounder, and there wasn't much roll, at least most of the time! A recommended stop.

Mar 2 - Anse Mitan

Pos: N14deg33.5min / W061deg03.4min. We had a nice sail in light 8-10 knot SW (yes, SW) winds south to Anse Mitan, arriving at 1400 hours. Initial snorkeling reports are disappointing; we'll report after more exploration.
Pic: We celebrated Hanne's birthday aboard. CHEERS!

Mar 1 - And then there was rum...

So much of the history of the islands in the Caribbean is related to rum. Being history afficionados, we walked a few kilometers to the Depaz Rum Distillery, enjoying the beautiful grounds and incredible machinery involved. I wasn't going to mention it, but yes, I did buy a bottle of VSOP. Come on...any distillery begun in 1651 gets my attention...On the snorkeling side of things, it's not been that impressive here, so we're planning on moving to Anse Mitan in the morning.
Pic: Checking out the working water wheel at the distillery.